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    Do not put off till tomorrow what can be put off till day-after-tomorrow just as well.
-- Mark Twain
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Hannibal has a rich heritage of river life, adventurous settlers

Editor's note: This is a reprint of a story that originally appeared in the Courier-Post in 1938, in honor of this newspaper's 100th anniversary.

The Hannibal of today, fourth in industry and seventh in population of the cities of Missouri has little resemblance to the town, pictured in a map filed in 1836, but that early map symbolizes the well-founded beginning of the city which came into existence as a result of an earthquake in New Madrid county in 1811.

A copy of the 1836 plat of Hannibal which belongs to the city engineer's office hangs in the Mark Twain museum and others are on file in the Wells Abstract Company office here and the office of the recorder of deeds in Palmyra.

To students of early history this map is surrounded with memories of the struggles of the pioneers to establish a city here on the banks of the Mississippi river, the trade route of the middle west or the "west" of that time.

According to early histories, the original site of Hannibal consisted of 640 acres granted to Abraham Bird.who lived in what is now West Virginia, in exchange for land which was lost under the waters of the Mississippi river after the New Madrid earthquake.

An act of congress in 1815 made it possible for New Madrid owners to exchange their injured tracts for land of similar size elsewhere, not to exceed 640 acres.

Half of Site Sold

On February 16, 1816, Abraham Bird gave a power of attorney to his son, Thomas Bird, and the latter in 1819 conveyed to Col. Elias Rector, of St. Louis, a half of the 640-acre tract for $960.

At about the same time, according to histories, Thomas Bird sold one-eighth of the tract to Moses D. Bates, of St. Louis, who in 1818 had been chain carrier in the sectionalizing survey for the United States government in northeast Missouri and Elias Rector sold his interest to R. Gentry, Thomas C. Rector, William V. Rector and Stephen Rector.

Early historians considered the conveyance from Thomas Bird to Col. Rector as faulty and smacking of "skullduggery" on the part of Bird.

On April 17, 1819, the three Rectors with Gentry, and Moses D. Bates signed a paper that the town tract was first located by Thompson Bird, Elias Rector Thomas C. Rector and Laban Glascock.

The paper showed that the town already had been surveyed and platted into lots and blocks. At that time the site was in Pike county, Territory of Missouri.

A plat of the town in 1819 apparently had been filed in St. Louis and deeds were issued from it.The plat of 1836 is considered the first workable map to be filed. It shows the town divided in 30 full-size blocks, with two other blocks on the river front which thrust their lower half into the Mississippi.

The town was bounded on the north by North street, and Water street, now Lyon street, was the south boundary. Sixth street was the west boundary line and the Mississippi river formed the east, as it does today.

Broadway Was Market

What is now Broadway was known as Market street on the early map. The city central park however, was placed on the plat in exactly the same location as it is today.

A cemetery was located north of the north end of Sixth street and a note in the explanation when the map was filed at Palmyra by Stephen Glascock said "the square in the northwest corner of the plat the citizens of Hannibal have seen proper to select as the place wherein to bury their deceased friends. The proprietors of said town were not consulted in the matter and do not object to the use of the said burial ground."

The plat was filed with S. Buckner recorder of Marion county and Glascock's statement was sworn before Justice of the Peace Zachariah G. Draper. Hannibal already was a thriving settlement in 1836 and sales of lots had been held two years previously.

Although Moses D. Bates is regarded as the town's first settler, he was not the first settler in the Hannibal region, for in 1792 Mathurin Bouvet, a French resident of St. Louis, a deputy of the surveyor-general, Antoine Soulard, started a salt factory at a saline deposit now known as Spalding Springs, in what is now Ralls county, ten miles southwest of Hannibal.

He returned to St. Louis the following winter, and when he came back to Spalding, he found his factory burned by Indians. His intention was to transport salt to the Mississippi river by means of boats on Salt river but this proved impractical.

Clear Creek Settlement

After rebuilding his salt factory, Bouvet in 1795 secured a concession located from Clear creek, north of Hannibal, to a point south of the mouth of Bay de Charles, and here he erected his warehouses. A settlement established there consisted of houses extending to the mouth of the bay.

The salt was transported from Spalding to the Clear creek site over a pack trail and the village prospered until 1800, when the settlers departed in fear of an Indian raid. The raid materialized and Bouvet, who had remained, was burned to death in his cabin when the settlement was set afire by the Indians.

A history of Marion county says that Moses D. Bates came up the Mississippi river from St Louis in 1818 and landed at the mouth of Bear Creek with two men of whom one, Jonathan Fleming, was a carpenter. Bates himself was a carpenter and had been the proprietor of a mill and lumber yard in St. Louis.

The three made the trip in a keel boat and as soon as they landed began clearing the ground at the foot of what is now Hill street. They built a log cabin at a site which would now be called the southeast corner of Main and Bird streets.

Shortly after the completion of this first house, men whom Bates had interested in the new venture began to arrive with their families.

New Settlers

These included Robert Masterson and John Bobb and their families of Louisville, Ky., Sam Thompson of Howard county, Edward Masterson of Louisville, and a Frenchman named Joe from St. Louis. Shortly after their arrival, Masterson and Bobb built a cabin south of the first one. Mrs. Masterson and Mrs. Bobb cooked for the settlement and all lived in Bates' cabin, it being roomier. All the men were employed by Bates, who returned to St. Louis in the winter of 1818 to bring other settlers and supplies.

During Bates' absence, the settlement had a narrow escape from being massacred by Indians of Sac tribe after one of their number had been killed by Sam Thompson in a hollow near Lover's Leap.

The killing came about when some of Masterson's hogs, the first ever seen in this settlement, had been set upon by dogs belonging to the Indians. Apparently the dogs believed the hogs to be a new kind of wild animal.

Thompson came upon one of the Indians either urging the dogs to attack or trying to keep them off the hogs and without waiting to determine which, he killed the Indian with a shot from his rifle.

Thompson had a particular dislike for Indians because some of his relatives had been killed in an Indian attack years before.

Running back to the cabin. Thompson told the others what he had done. Bobb and Masterson, fearing an Indian attack suggested that he leave and go to Louisiana but he refused.

The Indians were in winter camp near the bay and the slain red man's friend had carried his body there with much lamentation after the shooting.

Fleming Shot

Soon it was too late for Thompson to leave, for Jonathan Fleming came running in, bleeding profusely from a wound on one hand from which three fingers had been shot. He told the settlers he had been fired upon by the revenge-seeking Indians while he was cutting logs northwest of town.

Realizing that the warriors would attack soon to avenge their slain comrade, the white settlers barricaded themselves in the cabin. There were five men, two women and two children, with eight guns, but Fleming was injured so badly he could not take part in a battle. French Joe had mounted a horse and ridden for help from the Gash and Palmer families, settlers on South river.

About dusk the Indians arrived with a white man named Campbell, who operated a trading post on the bay, as interpreter. He told the besieged prisoners the Indians demanded the surrender of Thompson, claiming the Indian he had killed was peaceable and friendly and had been trying to keep the dogs away from Masterson's hogs.

The settlers refused to surrender Thompson and after the Indians had swarmed around the cabin they were persuaded by Campbell to leave the matter to his father, a well known trader of Louisiana.

This they refused grudgingly and returned to camp and a few days later the senior Campbell came from Louisiana with two other white men and in the presence of all white settlers in the vicinity a treaty was signed by which Thompson was turned over to civil authorities from Louisiana and he and the Indian who shot Fleming were started to St. Louis to stand trial.

En route from Louisiana with a party of white men, Thompson was allowed to escape and was never heard of again. After he got away the Indian also was freed and returned to his tribe.

This closed the incident, but the narrow escape from an Indian attack was the main topic of conversation in the little settlement for days.

Named For Creek

Bates had given the town the name of Hannibal because of Soulard, the French explorer, had called Bear creek, "Hannibal creek."

In 1819 Bates had sold half an interest in the town site to William Brigham, of St. Louis, for $800 but the deed was voided for lack of proper acknowledgment

Before 1828 it was found that the power of attorney from Abraham Bird to his son Thompson Bird was invalid for lack of certainty and proper acknowledgment and as the elder Bird had died intestate in 1821 his heirs had to recover title and there later was considerable confusion and litigation as a result.

When Bates and his party arrived at the site of Hannibal, the land was covered with heavy timber and the underbrush was so thick that wild peavines growing on the lowlands did not freeze in winter.

After building his first cabin, Bates began to clear off a farm in the vicinity of what is now McMaster avenue and then built a warehouse near the present site of the Planters' hotel in which he kept a stock of articles to trade to the Indians, trappers and early settlers. He traded chiefly for furs and dressed hides and when he got a boat load he would send it down the Mississippi to St. Louis.

Early Settlers

A history of Marion county states that after Bates' return from St. Louis in 1819, he had in his employ at his store Jonathan Fleming, Joseph Cavanaugh, James Henry, Isham Ables, Joseph McCorley, John Gooch and three negro "boys"--Jacob Love and two known as Bill and Randall. There was a negro woman, Mina, who was cook and housekeeper. The clerks in the store were Bates' nephews, David G. and Jefferson Bates.

Up at Campbell's post on the bay there was another white man named Vernam, who was interpreter for the Indians.

Ordinarily the Indians were quiet and peaceable but when they got drunk there were many fights. The Sacs and Foxes lived on this side of the river and many of them traded at Bates' store. These tribes did not like the Winnebagos and Kickapoos on the other side of the river, and kept them from crossing over to trade.

Another Settler

The next man to settle here was John S. Miller who came in 1819 with his wife and built a log cabin on the north side of Center street between Main and Third, and also put up a blacksmith shop in his back yard. As there was not much work for him in the smithing line, he moved to Galena, Ill. in 1823 and located near the lead mines.

The first white child born in the little settlement is believed to have been a daughter of the Millers in 1820. She lived only about a year. Amos Gridley and family also were arrivals here about that time and a daughter born to them and named Teresa was the second child born here.

Another early resident was Abraham Muntsberry, a hatter who came in 1819 and built a cabin.

A history records that there was also a dramshop, or at least a supply of whiskey, in an untenanted cabin near Main and Hill streets in this year.

The territory near the town site was being settled steadily and there were about twelve families living west and northwest from five to ten miles.

History, records the discover, of a cave in 1820 which now is known all over the world as Mark Twain cave, but Samuel L. Clemens, who was to become the world-beloved humorist Mark Twain, was not born until 15 years later.

The discovery came when Jack Sims, who lived in the northern part of what is now Ralls county, tracked a panther into a hole in a hill. He blocked the cave entrance with timber and went back the next morning with other settlers and their dogs, intending to see a fight between the panther and the dogs.

Find Big Cave

When the men removed the barricade and followed the dogs into the panther den they found it opened the way to a large cave which later was named McDowell's cave and became a favorite playground of little Sammy Clemens.

In the winter of 1820-21 Moses Bates moved his store to his farm on the present site of the St Marys cemetery to be nearer his customers who lived in Miller township and South River township.

His store in Hannibal occupied in 1922-23 by a man named Ordley who kept a small stock of goods. James L. Vaughn occupied another cabin in 1823 with a stock of goods and later established the first store in Palmyra. A man named Sargent also set up a store in John Miller's vacated cabin in 1823.

Bates married in 1821 and in that year moved his big store to Galena. Ill., to obtain business from the lead mines. That same year he established a line of keel boats between Galena and St. Louis.

A man of many enterprises, he made many investments. He speculated in land, laid out towns, sold goods, mined lead, loaned money, bought warrants from soldiers stationed in forts on the river and owned stock in the Missouri Republican, a St. Louis newspaper.

In 1825 he started one of his most important enterprises, a steamboat line between St. Louis and Galena. He purchased in St. Louis a small steamboat called the General Putnam and with it made regular trips to the lead mines.

First Steamboat

A history says this was the first steamboat to ply the Mississippi from St. Louis as far north as Louisiana. David G. Bates was captain of the craft and made landings at intervals for the crew to chop wood for getting up steam.

From 1823 until 1830 the progress of the settlement was slow. Many of the lots were sold to speculators but few to actual settlers. However the place grew and by 1830 elections were being held in a tavern owned by Joseph Brasher. A school house was built about 1830 in the public square, now the city park. It was a small log building in the northwest corner and was used also for religious worship by all denominations.

Steamboats now began to come up the river in considerable numbers one a week during the boating season. Many settlers came on these boats, some staying in Hannibal and others pushing on to locate in Marion county. In 1831 seed corn was brought by steamboat and sold for $4 a bushel.

The boats continued on to Port Scipio, north of Hannibal, on the site laid out by Antoine Soulard. Scipio at that time was almost equal in importance to Hannibal. Historians have not determined the exact date of establishing a postoffice here but it is believed to be 1832. In that year Joseph Brasher was postmaster and he was succeeded by Zachariah G Draper.

In 1833 the settlement had about 50 inhabitants and there were three stores operated by Henry Collins, Thomas Williams and Cowling and Agnew.

Growing In 1834

After the "land sales" of 1834, the town increased rapidly and substantially for several years in number of inhabitants and buildings. The first ferry across the Mississippi river had been started in 1832 by Samuel Stone, with Theophilus Stone as ferryman and the first brick house had been built on the levee in 1832 by a man named Hamilton.

A row of frame houses was built in 1834 on the east side of Main street between Broadway and Center street and that same year a frame schoolhouse was built in the public square to replace the log building. This continued to be the place of worship for all creeds.

By 1837 the population was about 500 and the settlement took a major step toward permanency - it incorporated as a town.

The incorporation was granted on August 8 by the Marion County Court on petition of two-thirds of the residents. The order described the boundaries of the town and this included South Hannibal, indicating that a new plat had been prepared since the 1836 map had been filed.

Affairs of the town were managed by a board of trustees composed at first of Joseph Brasher ,chairman, William P. Williams, William Strode, Henry W. Collins, and Samuel Agnew.

Interviewed by historians in 1883, Jonathan Pierce, who came to Hannibal in 1837, said that when he arrived here the town had at least seven merchandise stores and the place was booming The Hannibal House, a two-story log hotel operated by Thomas J Ayres near the site of the present Planters' hotel, was crowded with boarders and a traveler had difficulty obtaining a room.

Four Physicians

The town had three physicians in 1337-Dr. Jett, James, and Rackliffe. and a Dr. Bartlett who lived near the old Bay Mill on Clear creek, also practiced here.

A big event of this year was the establishment of a pork house near the foot of Broadway by a man named Amelung, from Cincinnati. A large number of hogs were killed and packed during the latter part of the year and in 1838. The firm of Shields and Williams also was engaged in pork packing in 1838.

The first church building was completed by Presbyterians in 1839 and was located on fourth street between Hill and Bird. lt was dedicated by Dr. Ezra Stiles Ely.

The town also had a tobacco warehouse in that year, operated by Samuel A. Bowen, whom the county court appointed the first tobacco inspector.

Hard times swept the country in 1843 and the growth of Hannibal was retarded but recovery seemed to be on the way in 1844 and the population began to grow again.

It was in 1844 that the spring rise of the Mississippi river flooded lowlands along the levee and the high water reached nearly to Main street. In this year, an early history states, the town had four general stores, three saw mills, two planing mills, three blacksmith shops, two pork packing plants, two hotels, two churches, two schools, a tobacco factory, hemp factory, a tanyard, three dramshops and several smaller places of business.

In the spring of that year there was an epidemic of measles of unusual virulence which caused the death of nearly 40 citizens. In one day there were seven deaths from this disease.

However the town continued to grow and in 1845 the population was more than 1,500.

Becomes City in 1845

Having weathered the difficulties of establishing a settlement in the wilderness and facing a future which seemed bright, the inhabitants decided to take another step in the important business of government and the town was incorporated as a city in 1845.

James Brady was elected as the first mayor of the new city and other officers were Samuel D. Rice, recorder, and William S. Landcraft, assessor.

The aldermen were: Nathaniel Fuqua and James M. Riley, first ward, Z. G. Draper and Archibald S. RoBards, second ward; and William Eddy and J. S. Buchanan, third ward.

The days of pioneering were drawing to a close and the city was now firmly launched upon the career which was to go forward steadily, halted momentarily at times, but moving ahead toward the days when it would occupy a position of eminence in Missouri history.

Mapped in 1854

A later plat and map of Hannibal, prepared in 1854 by Hart and the city's commercial enterprises. A copy of this plat now hangs in the Mark Twain museum on Hill street. Donated by T. C. Robinson, the map is time-stained by the 84 years which have passed since it was issued but the names of business houses streets and property owners are easily readable.

Many of the industries were concentrated on the levee, of First street, this being a natural development because of the proximity of the river steamers which provided transportation to and from the north, south and east.

The large slaughter house of Shields, Ray and Ashmore was located at the southeast corner of Church street and the levee, and across the street was the firms pork packing plant.

Nearby was the livery of Shoot and Company, located east of the southwest corner of Second street (now Main street) and Market street (now Broadway), and a store operated by R. W. Collins was situated at the southeast corner of Main and Center streets.

The Virginia House, one of Hannibal's early hotels, occupied a site on the west side of First street, just east of Hill street.

There was a tobacco factory at the southwest corner of First and North street and Webb Kunkel's livery was located at the southeast corner of Main and North street in 1854.

The map also designates a pork packing plant in the alley between First and Second (Main) street, north of North street.

Craig's Alley

Craig's Alley ran north from Rock street between the river and Main street and King and Snyder's sawmill was located 3 blocks north of North street on what is now Bridge street.

The postoffice was on the northeast corner of Main and Center streets and the office of the Hannibal Messenger joined it on the east side. The City hotel was situated on Main street, three doors east of Hill street, and the Monroe house was located on the southwest corner of Main and Center.

The map showed a lumber yard between Main and Third streets on Hill streets.

The northwest corner of Church and Fourth streets was the location of the Baptist church in 1854 and a carriage factory was located on Fourth street two doors east of Broadway,

A public market house nearly 90 feet long stood in the middle of Broadway just west of the present location of the Courier-Post.

The First Presbyterian church was located on the east side of Fourth street between Bird and Hill streets and the Second Baptist church stood at the northeast corner of Fifth and Church streets.

Courier On Main Street

The 1854 map shows the Hannibal Courier office located on the northeast corner of Main and Hill streets.

There was a tobacco factory at Fourth and Rock streets and a hemp factory on Water (Lyon) street between Fifth and Sixth streets.

The Catholic church was located on Church street midway between Fifth and Sixth.

The North Methodist church was situated on the northeast corner of Broadway and Sixth and the South Methodist church on the northwest corner of Fifth and Center streets.

Palmyra avenue (now Mark Twain avenue) was a busy thoroughfare, with dwellings and stores comprising the main buildings but the large tobacco factory of D. J. Garth was located two blocks north of Fourth street.

The map shows an old cemetery located at the top of North Seventh street and the state road to Paris, Mo., led off from this end of the street.

This is now Paris avenue.


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Lovers Leap
No one knows for sure how many places in Missouri are known as Lovers Leap; Mark Twain once wrote that there were at least 50 such high bluffs up and down the Mississippi River. Continue.




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